Is an E-Collar in Your Future?

Of course not, but it may be in your dog’s!

Cover Photo by: RM Photography

I am old enough to remember the days when training a dog was, by necessity, a hands-on practice. The first models of dog electronics were large – clunky – apparatuses that often spent as much time in the shop as they did in the field. Having been raised in a family where everyone had a dog or two, the decent care and the obedience training of dogs just came with the territory.

Though I often had no idea where she was, if Skye was missing, I could generally assume she was on point.

Training dogs in my more youthful years, I had no need for creating a “push-button” dog, as I used to call them. My setters were generally quite willing and able to demonstrate a strong desire to follow my lead. Eventually, however, there may come a time when one must reconsider their standard way of doing things and, perhaps, try something different. That time had a name and its name was, Skye.

Skye was a tremendous hunter with a willingness to win a game of stare-down with any game bird. Trouble was, she was driven to find that fowl wherever they may be! She wasn’t misbehaving, Skye was obviously born to run. She was built for horseback field trials or the vast prairie-land of the Midwest – not the varied and brushy landscapes of the Northwest. Whistles and constant yelling to bring her back around was tiring and depleted the aesthetics of an, otherwise, great day. That’s when I decided to try something different and that came in the form of an electric collar.

Just because it’s on her neck doesn’t mean it’s “on”. Keep in mind that some dogs will test that possibility.

Let’s begin by detailing what an electric collar (e-collar) isn’t. E-collars - more recently referred to as “Training” collars - aren’t a solve-all elixir for training dogs to do everything your heart desires. They are no more than a leash or check cord or any other tool used to support commands the dog has previously shown it understands. Another misconception is that an e-collar is used to punish. No! It is a tool to reinforce what has already been learned, not a device for doling-out anger or retribution.

It is not a tool used to train the early foundations of a well-behaved dog. Obedience, early field and bird introduction are – to me – still hands-on affairs. If raised in close proximity to its owner, a pup or young dog should have developed a strong desire for the owner’s affection. Shown the lessons through gentle guidance, with the use of our hands, will build a better foundation and the dog will learn quicker. Using leashes and check cords, the dog will accept these as extensions of the trainer/owner’s hands. The tug on its collar; a message coming from those hands.

When a dog has shown an ability to heel and come when called (5 - 10 months) with the use of leash and check cord is the time when you can add an e-collar. Keep the sending unit in the drawer at home, for it is not yet the time to actually turn the e-collar on. The e-collar’s introduction and application, like the leash, should be a welcome sight – anticipated as much as recess to a school child.

E-collars and the sending units come in a multitude of styles and capabilities. These capabilities not only extend the range of use but can include multiple dogs, their location, your location and much more. The complexity of these units can be staggering and, unless you’re expecting to land your dog on the moon, I suggest that you keep it simple. Like many things in life, more is not always better.

When to begin applying stimulation is fairly dog-dependent. Generally, that means the e-collar can actually be turned on near the age of a year or so. Don’t be timid, make certain that the e-collar’s electrodes lie firmly against the dog’s skin. Like using a butter knife as a screwdriver – each having their rightfully designed purpose - do not attach the leash or check cord to the e-collar, continue to use the standard collar for that purpose.

In a short while, young dogs will be “all-ears” for your command and return with excitement.

Ruby Mtn Photography

Having as many power settings as gears on my mountain bike, the best place to start is the lowest setting that evokes a slight reaction from the dog. With your dog calm, watch its reaction as you press the shock button quickly. The correct setting is reached once the dog demonstrates that something has touched it. Like the old tap on the opposite shoulder trick, the dog should look around for what just touched it, twitch, or shake its head, and/or briefly scratch at the collar. These reactions are very dog-dependent, as well.

Three of the most-trusted brands.

For those of a weaker constitution, I assure you, the dog is not receiving any greater stimulus than a sharp tug on the leash and the application of a slight buzz is far less painful than the myriad of possibilities that can happen to a poorly trained canine. My preference is not to use one at all but, when they are used competently, there is no cause for concern.

Offering the greatest likelihood of the e-collar’s successful use, start by taking your young dog out into a field. Still attached to the check cord, wait for the dog to be distracted by strange smells, etc. Then, call to it to come to you. It will, most likely, continue to piddle and poke around a bit. Call again, without increasing your volume or level of insistence, now, with the added incentive of the e-collar. You may need to tug on the check cord to start the dog’s momentum toward you but continue to press the button until the dog complies with the command. In this way, the dog is learning that it is in charge of the e-collar. The dog can prevent any shock by complying to the command given and, once begun, the dog can turn it off when compliance is reached.

Properly introduced, my dogs enjoy the sight of an e-collar as much as seeing a leash or my shotgun!

You can reinforce heel during yard training or on a walk by following your usual procedure. Still attached to a leash, you go through the routine. If the dog begins to move out into the lead and pulls against the leash, you apply the usual procedure – command “Heel” and tug back on the leash – but, this time, you additionally apply the use of electrical stimulation.

Here, again, you must be consistent. You MUST, and always, apply the use of electrical stimulus at the same point. Do not wait until you’ve made the command three times, then twice, then five times. That will garble the message and confuse the dog. Like increasing the intensity of your voice before you finally require compliance, the dog will not learn that you mean “now” and “every time”.

You may likely find that your dog will develop a tolerance to the level of electrical stimulation. This often happens during the excitement of field work or during the hunt. Expect the need to increase the collar level on those occasions or after long-term use.

As with many methods of training, there are several training philosophies and uses for an e-collar. For example, I do not use an e-collar during whoa training or while (training) birds are in use. That just means that I haven’t had to, not that I have some strong feelings against the practice or those that do.

Though wearing an e-collar, I prefer the standard use of a check cord while training with birds. In this case, intro to steady-to-flush.

Remember, though e-collars can be used as a short-cut, of sorts, I remain convinced that you develop into a better trainer without them. Not having e-collars requires imaginative ways of dealing with training issues. I began and successfully trained dogs for two decades without the use of e-collars; proof that it can be done. However, the days when I could chase-down a misbehaving dog are far – far – behind me. Besides, now, electricity travels faster than I do!

E-collars are tremendously useful in discouraging the search or chase of domestic and wild critters. Here, a couple zaps and I couldn’t pull this dog closer to the snake.

- Enjoy your dog!

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