Taking Pup Home

Found a pup to hang your hat on…

Naming - New Home:

At about the eighth week (between 7 and 9) of life, pups are now capable of being taken to their new home. A field dog’s name, at least what you call to him, should be short and with some “bite”. What I mean is simply that a short – single syllable - name or nickname with a hard “K” or “T” sound is quick and commands attention. A name is poorly chosen if it takes too long to enunciate clearly when hurried. Stammering like Porky Pig while your pup dashes, head-long, into danger. What you name your pup is your business but take your time before deciding and keep it short. Leave the long and complicated names for cats...they don't care, anyway.

Be prepared for Fido before you bring him home.  (Ever wonder where the name “Fido” came from? It’s Italian for “loyal” or “faithful”; there’s more to the story but…another time, perhaps.)  You should have purchased a portable kennel large enough to accommodate the dog when it reaches adult size as well as a collar, leash, chew toys, food & water bowls, etc.

You should also be prepared for the first few nights of little sleep. Fido is going to miss mom and littermates and will likely display his mournfulness in a very loud manner. You should have a room - nay, a garage - to board him up in his portable kennel for the night. Whatever you do, DO NOT go in to comfort him when he howls and whines. If you do, you will be conditioning (training) him to believe that all he has to do to bring you to him is howl - and he will. In other words, he is training you. Below is a brief summary of items a new dog owner should know.

House Breaking:

House breaking your puppy will be the first order of business if pup will be living in your home. When your pup is napping, not being watched or over night, always keep your pup in its portable kennel or crate. This is because pup is less likely to soil its bed but will readily soil everywhere else.

Kennel training helps develop a dog’s sense of “place” and patience. When applied correctly, this goes a long way toward preventing undesirable behaviors such as separation anxiety. Have an age-appropriate chew toy and, for training, toss in a puppy treat while demonstratively pointing into the kennel while cheerfully commanding, “Kennel”! Food and water are not necessary in the kennel for over-night.

Like I mentioned, the first few nights may be a bit noisy but the training will pay off. Move him to the laundry room or garage and put a blanket over the kennel to muffle noise and to help keep the puppy calm. He will soon consider it his fortress of solitude and welcome its open doors.

Wood shavings or the recently popular "wee-wee pads" may be necessary to absorb wetness until pup can make it through the night without soiling the portable kennel. For heaven’s sake, do not use "wee-wee pads" to train your pup to dump his load someplace in your house! Remember, "old school"...there was never anything wrong with training your pup to do his business outside and there is no need for an intermediate step. It is just somebody's idea on how to sell you floor diapers!

Get up early in the morning and take the pup outside to the location you want the dog to relieve itself. Don’t be impatient, allow the puppy ample time to do its duty. Then feed and water the pup. The puppy should be put out at least every hour. After the first week, extend this from 1 to 2 hours. When attending (playing) with your pup, learn the tell-tale signs that he needs to go. Then, pick the pup up and take it outside to do its job there.

When accidents happen swat the pup on the back-end appropriately and put the pup outside in the designated area. (An empty paper towel roll makes a wonderful swatter; loud pop - no pain.) Congratulate the pup when it get things right. If wet spots are discovered, don’t punish the pup after the fact. Never leave the puppy unattended, it should not roam the house freely until it is completely house broken. Follow this routine strictly and the pup should be successfully house broken within a matter of days.

Shots:

Puppy’s next vaccination should generally be given at 8 weeks, 12 weeks, and 16 weeks and then a booster will be given yearly. At six months old a rabies shot should be given. Consult your vet for exact information.

Worming:

I have read that your pet should be wormed three times a year (every four months). Personally, I believe in annual to bi-annual dosage for my dogs. Especially, if they are spending any time afield.  Rodents, coyotes and other creatures living out-of-doors that do not receive this kind of care leave the eggs of potential infestation behind. Visit your vet for the proper medication and dosage.

Feeding:

Puppy should already be weaned and eating dry hard puppy chow at about 6 weeks old. Good quality puppy chow should be fed using an appropriate feeding method. Many breeds will eat only what is needed if started out self-feeding. Others, tend to eat all that is supplied and look for more! Keep your puppy hydrated with a source of fresh water.

I call pups to feeding time by clapping loudly while calling to them. You can wait until pup is eating to clap your hands. Start several feet away and steadily work towards him during subsequent feeding episodes. Later, step up to shoes or 2x4 blocks of wood. This will have the pup associate loud noises with food; something rather pleasant to a dog's way of thinking. This is in preparation for the gun work to follow later in the training phase.

Grooming:

Regular bathing can be very beneficial for the pup and your home. Be sure to use a very mild shampoo especially developed for canines. Their skin and hair have oils that are essential to the health of both. If you own a long-coated breed you may wish to brush your dog regularly to keep as much shed hair outdoors as possible. This is especially true twice a year. After the winter months are over you may want to take your dog to the groomer and have it given a field cut. You can easily do this yourself by purchasing one of several electric shavers on the market. Relieving your dog of unnecessary amounts of heat insulation, it will weather hot summer days better, run cooler, brush out more easily and look sharp. Overall, it will be healthier for the dog and less expensive for you.

Outside Accommodations:

Please, no ropes or chains! Fido should have his own kennel area outside. A fenced in back yard is okay, if there's nothing out back you really cared for, like - grass! Puppies like to dig, chew, chew and chew. Plants, chairs, tools, pretty much anything pup can get his teeth on is fair game. There are many items in this world you don't want pup to sink his teeth into and therefore, I would suggest a kennel or dog run, (please don’t call it a “cage”). Clean your dog’s kennel or outdoor living area regularly of all fecal matter and, if on a cement dog run or kennel, hose out often.

Letting a young pup have free access to lawn furniture and covers will be a regrettable choice.

Inside this run should be a good house. I built nice insulated dog houses to accommodate our setters and pups several years back. They were very inexpensive to build, using largely free materials found here and there. I also added access for a cord for a heating pad during the winter months. If you are not handy, there are plenty of dog house plans online or that can be purchased already built.