Gun Dog Q & A

“How many weeks should we be training my dog?” I hear really good questions like that one quite often and, frankly, I don’t recall any really dumb ones.

During and after training sessions there are moments of teaching that elicit questions from the dog owner. I hear several very good questions - many “repeats”. I had been kicking around the idea of a Q&A Blog for awhile and finally tripped the trigger! So let’s begin with that first question…

Q: So, “How long should training take?”

A: Well, truth is, you never “stop” training. With dogs, the variables are immense; they include the age of the dog, the issues the dog presents, etc.. If we are starting with a puppy or young dog, the training will include the steps that takes the pup through obedience, (return, kennel, heel, whoa…) and into handling birds, (field control, gun intro, locating and holding birds at point…). Typically, if we begin in the spring, we train a few days per week here (and at home daily) through the summer to get the young dog ready for the first hunting season where, like a scrimmage game, they can put what they’ve learned into practice. The following spring, we can work on issues and bad habits the dog demonstrated during the season; refining the dog into an excellent hunting companion.

Q: “My dog is young and full of energy. During a recent outing, he bumped into a group of pheasants up-wind and showed no sign of wanting to point them, what should I have done? Should I be concerned?”

A: That’s a question that requires me to have been there to observe the dog and situation. You should have got your dog back to the scene and required him to whoa while showing a good deal of displeasure. Knowing this dog as well as I do, I am quite certain there is nothing to worry about. That doesn’t mean that there isn’t an issue (or two). The main issue is the lack of bird contacts - the dog is not hunted enough during the season to learn the finer points (no pun intended) of wild birds.

Q: “I purchased a dummy launcher to work my young dog on retrieving and now she won’t return the bumper to me but plays keep-away, what should I do?”

A: You just took too big a step, is all. It’s not the distance the dog retrieves that makes it a good retriever, it’s the performance. Put the launcher away - for now - and toss the bumper within the length of a check-cord (25 - 35 feet). Make the dog whoa until sent to retrieve then “reel” it back to you after she picks it up - while demonstrating many happy returns. Don’t over do it; for young dogs, keep it fun and always leave them wanting for more!

Q: “My young pup likes to retrieve and tear into toys to get at the squeaker, should I be concerned?”

A: Yes, what makes those toys squeak is the dog chomping onto it. This will very likely create a dog that will do the same to birds - what is called “hard-mouthing”. Get rid of all toys that squeak or soft stuffed toys that the dog loves to tear apart. Do not allow free access to toys you use for training. There are “chew” toys and “training” toys.

Q: “I have a pup and an older dog. During training, the pup will go to retrieve the bumper but runs off with it so I send the older dog to take it and retrieve it to me.”

A: Yikes!! Do not train dogs together - especially like that! The younger pup is learning ways to keep the object away from any that come to get it. It will either be that or the younger dog will eventually give up on retrieving altogether.

Q: “My dog doesn’t always lift one paw when he goes on point; how do I get him to do that?”

A: The classic - painting/photo - pointing pose is a variable response. Whether the dog is caught in mid-step or it is deciding to take just one more step, the practice is not an important part of the process of locating and holding game. Sure, it can be reinforced but that really isn’t practical.

Q: “I purchased a bird dog and (eventually) thought I would get her trained for bird hunting. When I finally got around to taking her to a place that had birds (pigeons), she showed no interest in birds; what’s the problem? What can be done to get her excited about birds?”

A: Well, though it is very rare, some pointing dogs just don’t work well with pigeons. The two issues that most likely may be the problem - together or separately - is the dog’s breeding and/or age. Tackling the breeding issue first; there are hunting breeds and there are, what is often referred to as, “sporting” breeds. In other words, dogs that have a bloodline carefully developed for their prey-drive and dogs that may be the same breed but their lineage was directed toward the dog’s confirmation (physical appearance) - often referred to as show bred. That can create the lax prey drive toward some (or all) types of birds, as mentioned.

In between are dog breeds that burst into popularity where the people that breed them are only concerned about making money. Often, a dog bred for show looks so similar to their hunting cousins that you’re not really sure what you’re getting. So, just because it “looks” like the hunting dogs in the magazines, doesn’t mean that the dog has been bred to hunt. Believe me, there is a difference!

Now, adding the factor of time; sometimes, much of the drive to pursue game can dissipate over time. If the dog began with very little background in field hunting, the lack of specific breeding compounded by the passing of time can develop a dog that has found other pursuits in life more enjoyable than searching for birds. A lifestyle so ingrained that pulling a hunt mindset out of the dog would be a monumental task.

So, if you’re just thinking of “dabbling” in upland bird hunting, I’m afraid that the effort (time/cost) really won’t be worth it. If your heart’s set on taking up the sport, I believe a careful search for a pup that is line-bred for hunting would be more fun and, likely, less expensive in the end.

Q: “We have two pointing dogs; one established four-year-old and a pup. We take them on hikes and when the older dog points a covey of birds, the youngster runs ahead and busts them. “How can I get her to point?”

A: Sounds as though you’re creating a “monster!” Not having learned that she can’t catch mature - wild - birds, the young dog is bolting ahead to beat the older dog to the “prize.” What you’re likely creating is a competition that will intensify and may start the older dog to creep in to get to the birds he/she has found. Now, you have TWO flushing dogs and twice the problem!

Here’s a useful metaphor; the St Louis, Cardinals, Major League baseball team doesn’t train with middle-schoolers - for, what should be, obvious reasons! Train each dog separately to the level they are at and you can more easily work on their individual needs. You will prevent bad behaviors and move both dogs ahead further - faster - when training as individuals!

That’s all the time I have for today. Thank you for all of these and other questions we may cover in the future. Until then, get outdoors and…

- Enjoy Your Dog!