Rock Steady
Among some trainers of bird dogs there is a strong aversion toward a dog learning to “sight-point” birds. I’m convinced that this concern – or, at least, the amount – is a bit dramatic.
First, the act of sight-pointing, itself, is often desirable. In field trials, and even with wild birds, there will be opportunities when birds are caught in the open. Upon spotting a bird, it would be preferable for your dog to hold its ground – right? Second, dogs are designed to use their nose, it doesn’t make sense to believe that a dog would “never” learn to use its nose to locate hidden birds. Third, there is a concern for dogs wanting to creep up for visual confirmation of the bird. Creeping, no matter the cause, is a whoa problem and is fairly easy to correct. A dog should learn to freeze at the initial contact and hold in all bird-related encounters – scented, seen, or heard.
Training quail - or wild birds - don’t always cooperate but the dog should!
Up to this point, your pup should have learned what whoa means in various situations. Here is where learning to hold while, perhaps, a bird wing is in sight or an object is tossed – takes to the air – will be compounded upon. As a young pup, perhaps Fido had an opportunity to play with pen-raised birds and ample bird-related excitement has been demonstrated. I prefer not to encourage chasing a bird in flight; rather, limiting the pup to the length of a check cord. I don’t wish to encourage something that I will then have to break, later.
No, by developing a pup that will whoa while playing fetch, and other techniques, it is my design to develop a dog that freezes when a bird flushes wild. It is my preference that a dog holds to the shot of the gun - at least.
I am not a self-proclaimed dog magician. Even if I developed some techniques through experience, many others had discovered something similar already. For example, ”The bird says, “whoa,” was a phrase used by the late Jim Marti of Burnt Creek Setters, ND. Similar to my techniques, it was his practice to keep a pup in check (check cord) from its earliest intro to cover and birds.
One bird intro technique requires wire fencing (or a step-release), check cord, a metal stake, and a pigeon (or quail). For the first stage of the process, I place a “hobbled” bird inside a cylindrical section of wire fencing – as demonstrated by one of my grandsons. At this point, I should explain that a hobbled pigeon means that it has wings banded with string or rubber band to prevent flying. I don’t wish to remove flight feathers because I wish the bird to fly, later.
Wing-hobbled pigeon is placed inside the cylinder of wire fencing. Involving young assistants, such as a grandchild, helps create and preserve an outdoor heritage.
Steady-up the dog while calmly encouraging with “Whooa…”
Next, I bring the young dog into the scene from the down-wind side of the trapped bird. Whether Fido hesitates due to sighting the bird or scenting is not an issue at this stage. If the pup smells the bird in-sight, you are where you need to be; no closer than about ten feet. Now, you tie the check cord to the metal stake (or fence post, as shown), to prevent the dog from bolting to the bird. Encourage the pup while holding steady by stroking its back toward the bird and calmly purring “Whooooa…”. The struggling bird should entice the young dog to break toward the bird. Pick Fido up and replace him (drop him on all-fours) back to the spot, with a bit of a shake, and command, “Whoa”! - Repeat.
Five month-old holds with pigeon trapped in step-release - upwind and in sight.
Some pups are more persistent than others; requiring constant correction. For those, I use the half-hitch around the pup’s flank and attached to the collar routine. Sometimes, I just clip a loop around the dog’s flank. Keep enticing Fido to jump by shaking the bird cage, clapping your hands, tossing your cap or a glove until Fido holds his ground.
Then, if it’s a homing pigeon, you can release the bird. If not, you can attach it to the cage with about ten yards of strong string or light cord to simulate the flush. When you do, the dog is going to jump to offer chase - pick Fido up and replace as before.
Half-hitch around the dog’s waist and clipped to its collar.
Holding her point, I just clip the cord around her flank as a precaution. Friendly, e-collar - not turned on - conditioning is also taking place.
Eventually, you should be able to move around and pretend to release the bird. Remember, every break by the pup is an opportunity for it to learn. Don’t loose hope - or your temper!
Once your pup proves capable of holding - rock steady - it is time to hide the caged bird in cover for the pup to locate by scent. The check cord and stake are still required when the dog holds point by scent. Bring the pup in from down-wind and try to get it to hit the scent by coming across the air-stream (called a “scent cone”) coming from the bird. This makes it easier to tell when the pup has hit scent.
The use of homing pigeons and radio-controlled bird release (or an assistant) will develop a dog that freezes when birds are sensed and holds through the act of flushing the birds. This not only limits chase and, therefore, flushing more birds, it insures that the dog will remain focused to pin-point where it was dropped by the shooter - in the future!
Bird in a step (or launch) release hidden in the grass, a young dog crosses the scent cone, turns, and holds point!
Steady to flush!
Of course, you can use additional tools such as place boards, tables, barrels, conduit, or e-collars on their bellies. I do not take issue with these additional tools - apart or in combination. I just haven’t had to routinely use some of these items and I don’t use e-collars while working young dogs on birds.
Don’t give up or give in! And, Enjoy Your Dog!
For additional information -
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