Putting the GUN in “Gun Dog”
So far, we have properly introduced the hunting partners - the dog and its owner. After that, we invited the third component, the bird, to the party. Here is where we introduce the item that will bring them all, physically, together - the gun!
Adding the gun puts everything together; as it should be.
You may have noticed that, up to this point, there has been a great deal of hand-clapping involved in your dog’s daily and training routines. Now, adding the fourth (and final) major component in a typical upland hunting scenario, this is where it all pays off.
Clapping, of course, was in an effort to condition your dog towards a positive – neutral at least – association involving loud pops during various activities. This next step should be quite simple due to your having used these precautions. First, let me take a moment to list some of the things that you should NOT do.
It has been documented so thoroughly that I am stunned to hear folks (guys, mostly) still making this HUGE mistake. DO NOT take your pup to a gun range! (BTW: That includes taking your dog out to the gravel pit to sight-in your rifle.) Even if the dog is left in its portable kennel at the very back of the parking lot; unless it involves a T-bone steak, the young dog has nothing but negativity to learn from the experience. Yes, perhaps, grandpa did it successfully with his dogs back in the day, but the odds are going to catch up with you.
Likewise, don’t expose your young dog to the annual family Fourth of July celebration. All the loud noise and flashing lights may seem like a holiday to you but, for the dog, it can be frightening chaos.
Even after your young dog has shown to be comfortable with guns when birds are involved, the previous activities can undo all of your well-meaning efforts. Limiting the number of shot attempts and your hunting party to you, (perhaps an understanding and dogless partner), and your new dog for the first season (or a great deal of it) will ensure that your pup will have a welcoming experience with guns in the field.
Now, what we should do – and there are several variations. The simplest method, for those of us without training facilities, can include these simple steps. During your dog’s retrieving training, you should have been clapping your hands at the toss of the bumper, (preferably, by now, frozen or fresh birds).
Hopefully, by now, your dog is holding and retrieving fresh birds.
Now, we can ramp it up with the use of one of a half-dozen tools. They can include, a child’s cap gun, a primer (only) in an empty shot-shell, a light-charge in a blank pistol, etc. If you have a training assistant, you can have them discharge louder .22 cal blanks or a smaller gauge shotgun from a greater distance.
Noise makers come in various styles.
Toss the bird a few times as normal then, give it a good toss to add greater distance from the sound. As the dog aggressively charges toward the bird, discharge the firearm behind your back - the assistant, from a distance. I have yet to own a dog that gives the practice a second thought.
Using live ammo at a tolerable distance, the shooter signals his readiness for the bird’s release.
If the pup hesitates a moment at the sound, keep cheerfully encouraging it to fetch the original item. The familiarity will likely get a dog that hesitates back-on-track. If the dog returns directly to you, don’t hesitate, cheerfully whoa Fido and send him back to fetch again. This time, only clapping, as usual. Repeat a few times and, if Fido has returned to form, try discharging the device from a greater distance. This is why it is critical to learn to read your dog’s cues and adjust training accordingly.
My grand-assistant places the step-release in plane sight for the bird to be placed inside.
With homing pigeons, we simply continue from the previous lessons (See: “Rock Steady”) using the wire enclosure(s). I prefer to back-track to the practice of a restrained dog, with a caged bird in-sight and up-wind from the dog. The dog is very familiar with the set-up and has learned to hold steady – even to the point of releasing the bird. Now, with the dog settled into the procedure, release the bird, wait a beat, and discharge the (light-reporting) firearm on your side away from the dog. The dog will likely leave its stance to chase, whereupon you quickly – without malice – return it as before with a “whoa”! Reassure Fido with whoa and stroking his back until he is standing calm before releasing him.
The assistant, with a blank gun held low, on the far side of his body, prepares to release the bird then, pop a blank. The handler prepares to steady the dog.
Using an assistant, the process can be much simpler and more effective. I prefer the dog’s owner/handler work the dog-end of the procedure and the assistant releasing the bird and discharging the sound device. (Kids are thrilled to help in that regard!) The only time that there needs to be a variation in this practice is when the dog is suspected to be “soft”.
In that case, the assistant must be at a greater distance with the firearm; the handler must release the bird and replace the dog if it bolts to give chase. A remote bird launcher simplifies this task by allowing the handler to stay with the dog.
Here, the assistant flushes the hidden bird and will pop a primer. When the dog has advanced and holds during the flush and shot, we may shoot the bird as a reward.
Eventually, we are all back to the stage where the dog locates and points the trapped bird hidden in cover. It’s important to have someone on the dog-end of the procedure, quieting, and restraining the dog during the flush and shot process. If you’re working alone, you must immediately go to the dog, restrained by a check cord, and replace him in the original spot with a “Whoa!” and a bit more insistence. (Again, no anger.) Do not release the dog until it stands relaxed. The entire sequence is repeated and, in time, the dog will hold steady to flush and the report of a firearm.
If the dog breaks, the handler scoops the dog up and drops it back to the spot of its original point with a “Whoa”!
Once replaced, reinforce the dog’s holding steady by petting and calmly repeating, “whoooa…”
Things to keep in mind include: wear ear protection and hold a hand-gun (loaded with blanks) at your side when firing - not up by your head like you’re starting a race. If you’re using shotgun primers or blanks, remember to point the barrel(s) away from the dog’s location. Speaking of “location”, once the dog has developed the tendency to hold through wing and shot, practice in as many locations as possible to prevent the dog’s thinking that the skill is only required in one location.
The most important thing to remember is that gun-shyness is practically permanent and should be avoided at all cost!
The next most important thing? Remember to - Enjoy Your Dog!
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