Tables and Barrels

Access to equipment and birds, with a place to use them, are key elements. Add to that, an experienced trainer to guide you and you’re well on your way to building a solid bird dog.

Tables and barrels – place boards, posts, and pigeons – these are just a few of the tools used by many professional dog trainers. I encourage you to research the cost of professional gun dog training and note the significant expense. To maximize training and minimize wasted time, professional trainers need these and much more to turn a profit.

The expense is well earned by those that competently train and board dogs. You should have the bowls, chew toys, portable kennel, etc. that any young dog requires. But, does that mean that you cannot own the pointing dog of your dreams if you can’t afford professional training on top of that?

Heavens, no! Saving a few bucks being the reality, not the primary goal, many have trained their best bird dogs in backyards and vacant lots with a few - essential - tools. Developing a better canine companion should include the owner’s direct involvement in the process. You have my assurance that the goal is for us to create the ability for you to work with your dog in your own space - not drain your bank account. Let's see if we can make that happen, shall we?

There are about a “million-teen” training methods applied to dogs and each of them will work given the correct application, situation, and amount of time. In fact, I would be suspect of any professional trainer that claimed to use only one practice on every dog – and was universally successful. Being capable of a fair amount of individualism, dogs can present us with enumerable, sometimes odd, behaviors. Training sessions often present unsuspected opportunities if you’re capable of recognizing it. It’s up to the trainer to figure out what might work better for a certain dog or situation.

In the final analysis, the foundation to any training method is being patient and consistent. Show the pup what you want it to do and use the exact same command and practice – every time! How much you vary from that will equal how much your dog’s compliance will vary. It’s simple math!

Your first homework assignment was spelled-out in my article “Taking Pup Home”. There, you learned about choosing (and using) a name, potty-training, place training (portable kennel), and appropriate care. While maintaining compliance with these previous lessons, you begin formal training. Always keeping in mind, at these early stages of puppyhood, that happy compliance will generally take us along faster and further. The following information is taken from my course descriptions and begins with the pup coming when called.

Name - Come/Here Association:

ESSENIAL! The initial application to train pup its name and enjoy being with you. Steps include but are not limited to:

• Apply pup’s name before commands. Such as, “Fido – Come”! Repeat its name and/or just the command in an excited voice. Don’t be chatty! Too many words is confusing and pup is just learning that these noises you make have meaning.

• Entice pup to come to you by clapping hands while calling excitedly. Useful at feeding time, this has the intended long-term effect of positive association with a “pop!” noise.

• Don’t yell commands. Dogs soon associate the tone and decibel of your voice to the command’s required compliance.

• Apply generous amounts of praise (sometimes – sparingly - a treat) upon its arrival.

• Soon, you will use the leash/check cord (later, perhaps, e-collar?) to train immediate compliance.

Goal: Happy association with pup’s name and recognition of you as a resource for positive attention.

Begin to teach your puppy to know their place!

Kennel Conditioning (Place Training):

As an earlier post has stated, portable kennel (crate) should be the pup’s happy home until it has been trained as a trustworthy house guest. The portability allows it to be used as a safe travel compartment and a home away from home inside unfamiliar settings. Later, if you wish, the pup can be trained to remain on a bed. Steps include but are not limited to:

• Place pup inside kennel while clearly stating, “Kennel”!

• There should be objects inside (chew toys, puppy snack, etc.) to encourage and preoccupy puppy.

• Can be located near everyone during meals, watching TV, etc. Must be done every time puppy is not being directly engaged by people.

• Place kennel in remote area of the house during the initial stages of sleep. Be prepared for loud pup protesting for a few evenings.

• Every effort should be made to remove the pup to do its business BEFORE it wakes and protests to get out.

• Never remove puppy during its protest to get out. If it must be removed from a locality (room), wait until there is quiet or transport the pup while remaining inside the kennel to the preferred location.

• Covering the kennel with a large blanket during extended periods (sleep) may have some benefit.

• No physical scolding pup while in kennel, it should be her safe place.

Goal: Happy compliance, seeing kennel as its sanctuary.

Soon, your pup will find the solace of a kennel very relaxing.

Next: “Mind Your Manners”