Friendly Fetch - Part 2
“It’s not rocket surgery”, as a friend often says in jest. There are multitudes of methods and definitions used in dog training. It is preferable that the dog has a predisposition toward a favorable action or response to an introduced stimulus. Simply stated, many dogs can be trained to complete a task, but the process is simplified if there is already a bred-in tendency. The objective of this article, reliable retrieving, may not require the stricter practices often advocated if your pup enjoys picking up and carrying objects. However, if your pup shows no interest in chasing and picking up an object, this technique is not for that pup.
For the pups that don’t seem to enjoy carrying objects, the eventuality may be the force (conditioned) retrieve or similar methods. Recently having undergone relabeling in an effort to make it more palatable to some, Forced Retrieve training is an extremely effective training method and I would not presume to replace or improve upon it. I have used it but, over the years, I have revised my way of thinking a bit. Like other forms of training, I don’t completely buy into the belief that it is the only manner of training that will develop a reliable retriever.
Show off! Young setter flexes his muscle and displays his retrieving prowess!
“Why is that,” you ask? The simple answer begins with – breeding. The attempt is to reinforce a strong tendency that has been already demonstrated to exist in a dog. For example, it’s not often postulated that all dogs bred to point should be similarly forced-trained to do so. After all, that is what breeding for specific attributes is all about. By taking advantage of the tendency to point, we are left with simply reinforcing the action; preferably with positive techniques. Consider, pointing Labrador Retrievers didn’t come about by forcing Labs to point, they were bred toward that tendency.
Therefore, if a pup shows an instinct or wanton desire to retrieve, logic would suggest that a great deal of force may not be required. In many breeds and individuals, without reinforcement, that desire can fade over time. The methodology I have chronicled here is based on advancing reinforcement - from a game into a command – and without the dog’s apparent concern.
Previously, in “Serious Fun”, I chatted about the beginning stages of conditioning a pup to enjoy fetching objects inside a hallway. You may recall we covered the first two stages of the process and ended using a leash to reel-in the pup. It is very important that pup is comfortable with its latest accessories before moving outside.
Retrieve objects should not be used for any other purpose.
Once moved outside of the hallway and into the outdoors, we will transition to the check cord. Hopefully, the check cord had been used on several field trips prior to its use in our next stage.
Stage 3 - Check Cord: Puppyhood transitions into teen-dog and, around 6 months, teething takes place. If you notice Fido enjoying a good chew while retrieving an object, you may wish to reduce or put this training on hold. Excursions into the field with a check cord, and the commands that accompany these field trips, are useful to develop several primary skills. In retrieve training, the transition from leash to check cord will be simplified if the dog has been introduced to the check cord in the field.
Start by switching from the leash to the check cord in familiar surroundings and using the most favored retrieve object, (ball, toy, bumper). Whoa the dog, as you had in the hallway, then toss the bumper within the pre-established leash distance and release with an enthusiastic, “Fetch”! Avoid beginning the process by tossing the object across the yard, a few feet at first is fine. If successful, praise-praise-praise!
Keep the process very familiar and the thrown object within cord distance. Fido will likely try to play keep away and you will need to reel Fido in, hand over hand, while cheering him on! If everything is progressing, begin to add to the types of items Fido will retrieve. Begin with one toss of the familiar object, maybe a tennis ball, and then pour on loads of enthusiasm! Now excitedly shake the new object, perhaps a retrieving bumper, before tossing, as before.
After a few sniffs, this young dog was willing to pick up a tossed bumper.
Fido will likely run to it then sniff it cautiously. It’s okay, keep up the encouragement for its return! If that happens – oh, happy day! If not, try to work up the dog into a sense that he must have that bumper! Then, toss it just a few feet away and cheerfully encourage with “Fetch”! Fido should be excited to the point where he picks the bumper up almost without thinking. If not, go back to the tennis ball and end, as always, on a happy note.
After a few weeks of excellent compliance with fetching, it will be time to add “Hold”, (with a very pronounced “H” and “D”). While holding the familiar retrieving bumper (dummy), command “Fetch!” to have the dog remove it from your hand. I like bumpers because I can hold it from the ends and the dog will grab it by the middle when I command fetch. Congratulate the dog appropriately then have him release it (always) into your hand with “Give” – “Drop” – whatever. Do not let the dog drop the object at your feet! The dog making the decision on when to drop the bird may encourage incomplete retrieval; birds being dropped anywhere along the way.
Fetch! The youngster takes the bumper from my hand.
Hold! An important step in reliable retrieving.
Demonstrate gently – yet firmly – the requirement of holding the bumper by using both hands to clamp Fido’s jaws onto the bumper with a little shake. This is done in a manner that is purely demonstrative. Keep one hand scratching under the bottom jaw to help reinforce the grip and prevent Fido from dropping his head to release the bumper. The other hand is held as if stopping to whoa the dog while encouraging with “Hold”! By now, Fido should recognize the whoa command as freeze – don't move a muscle! At the first short compliance command “Give!” - don’t dally! After a week or two, Fido should willingly hold the object while walking at heel. As always, keep it short and simple to start.
Carrying the bumper while heeling next to you is a huge hurdle.
Before we try real birds there are a couple more fun steps. The first is to attach a wing and/or tail to a retrieving bumper. Excite Fido with a smell or two then, still on a check cord, complete the stages Fido has previously learned – whoa, toss, release to fetch, clapping hands, and encouraging to return. Fido may take a moment to sniff but keep encouraging to fetch! If he does, loads of praise! If he doesn’t, take Fido to the bumper. With the leash under one boot next to the bumper, pull Fido’s head down to the bumper and pry his mouth open. With his mouth open, scoop each end of the bumper into his mouth – centered in his mouth firmly, say, “Fetch”!
Keep a hand under Fido’s jaw and encourage with a “Hold!” command. With one hand holding the bumper in his mouth, (you may need to insure it stays), use the other hand to pull him by the collar in the direction from which you had tossed the bumper and repeat, “Fetch”! After a few yards, have Fido “Hold!” the bumper without your hands around his muzzle. After a beat, command, “Give!” to which he will most happily comply. As before, this step is showing the dog what you are expecting and that it is a command, not a request.
If Fido is still excited with a little added encouragement, toss the feathered bumper and release him to fetch, again. No go? Try another of the favorite retrieving objects first then mix in the feathered bumper. When Fido retrieves and carries the feathered bumper at heel with the same enthusiasm as before, then it is time for birds. It is generally during the check cord stage that actual hunting may begin. (See: “Putting the GUN in Gun Dog”)
Encouraging the retrieval of game birds is a good idea – hunting your young dog with another dog is not. Fido will likely leave retrieving to the advanced dog and continue hunting to beat the other dog to the next bird find.
Whoa before throw!
Allowing the young dog to savor its good work while reinforcing the “Hold” command with up-held hand.
Stage 4 - Birds: Your young dog should have been working through a number of retrievable items before you get a hold of a dead game bird or pigeon. That can be a huge leap forward for some dogs. I once took advantage of a feral Euro (collared) dove that happened to be about. The young English setter was introduced to the dove after a more experienced dog had provided a brief demonstration.
The young dog was on a tie-down and was allowed to witness the older dog’s enthusiastic retrieve. The smell and action were intriguing enough that the young dog ran to and picked up the bird quickly. However, within in a few steps the feathers got to be too much! Blah! Native or Euro-dove feathers tend to be light and sticky. A bit of slobber mouth on a hot day and the soggy feathers begin to cling all over!
One way to prevent this issue would be to avoid using a fresh bird from the Columbidae (doves & pigeons) family on a warm day. Though having attached wings of a game bird, (pheasant), to a retrieving bumper for several previous sessions before trying a real bird, the transition was a bit much.
For best results, we use solid frozen birds for retrieving introduction. In this young setter’s case, a frozen quail was the ticket! We stayed with frozen bird practice, in various areas, before mixing in a few fresh quail after a day’s hunt later in the fall.
A little tempting with a fresh quail after a hunt will be enough retrieve incentive for most young dogs.
Hunt Phase: Your young dog should have been introduced to the various phases of gun fire and its association with live birds prior to heading out after game birds. That article is, indeed, up-coming. Often, Fido will comply perfectly in the yard or training field but sometimes doesn’t make the connection from yard to field. Not completing the retrieve – dropping the item or pretending to not see it – requires pulling the dogs head to the ground, scoop bird into dog’s mouth, force-carry the bird back in the direction you came from (just five yards or so), made to hold the bird convincingly and then commanded to give the bird up. A very firm voice should be applied to this practice by now. Not uncontrolled yelling. An over-stimulated, frightened, dog is not listening – it is trying to avoid getting walloped!
Training in multiple settings shows a young dog that retrieving is not location-oriented.
(Photos by: Kaitlynn Hutson of RM Photography - 2)
Mutual admiration after a job, well done!
The methods I have written about are ones that I use most often - not the only ones. I have recently come across the work of Jeremy Moore and his process is philosophically similar. His insistence and practice of training the “Hold” command with a wooden dowel and the dog sitting on a large wooden cable spool is excellent. No frills and gets the effect we need from the dog.
Hold Conditioning: Gun Dog Delivery Without Force Fetch
By: Jeremy Moore
Again, we are using a method of training on dogs that have a pre-disposition toward natural retrieving. If your dog doesn’t possess this tendency and the process comes to complete rejection, your dog may be a candidate for other forms of training. Be cautious in this regard. There are several “magic methods” on the inter-webs developed by amateurish (and, often, relatively timid) people. Knowing your dog’s personality will help you decide which method will work best for your dog.
The good news is that Fido has most of the fundamentals already introduced. “Fetch” and “Hold” among them. All that’s missing is the dog’s understanding that there is no escaping the compliance of the command. If required, the time and effort it will take to complete the Force (Condition) Training process, for example, should be significantly reduced.
I have viewed the following and, though I may not take the same approach, can see validity and apparent effectiveness.
I don’t subscribe to treat-training but many of you may enjoy watching: Force Fetch with Deutsch Drahthaar Series - (Day 1 - Session #1) By: Cortney Schaefer
Closer to traditional Force (Condition) Fetch Training process: Forced Fetch Using the Gibons-West Method By: Carol Ptak
Traditional Force (Condition) Fetch Training process: Teach Your Gun Dog To Fetch - Step 1 By: Ethan Pippitt of Standing Stone Kennels
I normally dodge anything titled, “Made Simple”, but here’s a slight twist on the Traditional Force (Condition) Fetch Training process that makes sense: Force Breaking Made Simple By: Scott Kossan
