Heel and Whoa!
Prerequisites:
Your dog should be about 5 to 6 months, respond to its name and comes when called. It should have been adequately introduced to a collar, leash, check cord, reliably enters its portable kennel and has had some live bird experience. Having learned the Whoa command during earlier training sessions would be very beneficial.
Introduction:
Bird-less days are not bad days with a good dog. A well-mannered dog is a joy to be with, in the field and in the home. To develop an enjoyable hunting companion, it is very important not to minimize or rush obedience training. These basic commands are the foundation that all others are built upon. Do your homework! Starting advanced training with a weak foundation will result in frustration for you and your dog.
Now that your puppy is nearing its sixth month of development, this is where we begin applying a bit more insistence and control. So, “Where do we begin”? The answer, as always, is by building upon what has already been learned. If you have used puppy-training techniques similar to our program of conditioning a pup to enjoy learning, we can utilize the young dog’s desire to please toward its obedience training. The basic obedience commands include: “Come/Here”, “Kennel”, “Heel” and “Whoa”
Program Description:
Reliable canine performance mandates that you have a realistic and appropriate relationship with your dog. “Realistic”, in what you should expect from your dog. “Appropriate” meaning, in part, the pup has accepted your role as a consistent and trusted Leader.
At the successful conclusion of this series of learned commands, you have a dog that can begin to combine birds and guns. Once this has been accomplished, along with the basic obedience previously learned, in my mind, you have a “Started” dog.
As I mentioned, we are moving into a stage that requires the dog owner/handler to apply control and greater insistence. You must keep a young dog inside your sphere of influence by use of a fenced area, leash, or check cord (e-collar can be placed around the neck but not turned on). Because you must insist on compliance to your commands, and not allow avoidance, NEVER make a command you are not in a position (or willing) to enforce. No longer trying to entice, your voice must imply command.
Duration:
Dogs are unique individuals, their temperaments, strengths & weaknesses, and what motivates them can vary a great deal. The time and effort a dog’s owner is willing and able to provide beyond this program is valuable in creating the end result. Therefore, the length and strategies of any training regimen may require a variable approach. The program descriptions offered represent what is typically expected and achievable. Differing goals and, therefore schedules, may require customization in order to bring about the best end result. The program’s ultimate goal is to prepare you and your dog to enjoy the first real hunting season.
Whistle Conditioning:
Easy to train and more effective than yelling; whistle training is part of my dog’s early life-lessons. To me, there is nothing more intrusive in the harmonious outdoors than a human constantly yelling at their dog. Red-faced and out of breath, should be the effects of hunting for cliff-dwelling chukars, not from trying to recall your dog. Steps include but are not limited to:
· “Come!” is easily learned by simply combining one (or two) blasts on a whistle after verbally calling a pup to something it likes, such as feeding time.
· Eventually, the association is learned and the verbal command can be omitted and the whistle command is all that is required.
· I use two blasts for my dogs to come to heel and one for it to put eyes on me for direction. I have a whistle “tune” I use when I want the dog decrease its range – return but not come to heel.
Many happy returns! In two sessions, this youngster learned to enjoy hearing (and complying with) her whistle commands.
Heel Conditioning:
Treated by many as a nicety, heel is a must in my training regiment and should have begun shortly after the leash was accepted as a fun opportunity for a walk. Like many of the other lessons I insist upon, heel is just as much about safety as it is practicality. A dog that is reliably heeling is not a distraction or in danger. Loosely controlled, a dog can be stepped on, tangle its lead around legs and brush or pull against you until you’re sore and exhausted.
A friendly beginning at an early age (about 10 weeks) will spare your arms and shoulders from years of tugging by a strong adult dog on the far-end of a leash. Later, I will have a pup sit before I attached a leash to prevent the pup-roping event that takes place with the anticipation of a walk. Once attached, I pat the side of my leg that I want the dog next to, command “Heel!” and begin walking at a brisk but comfortable pace. I pick the side opposite to my preferred arm; I am right-handed, so the dog is on the left. Choose a side and stay there.
You have been working the pup on a leash so, he is likely to try pulling ahead. I use a combination of quick jerks on the leash and a reminder to “Heel!” until the pup is back in line. We pace in a line across the yard, turn, and walk back. Always correcting in the manner described. A dog that continues to tug should be treated with a quick and unexpected about-face that will take it a bit off its feet. Adding a stern, “Heel”! A few reps and your pup should begin to get the idea.
Now you’re ready to go for walks around the block, to the park - wherever - and to interject the familiar “Whoa” command mixed into the routine.
Pointing Dog Journal - Heeling Made Easy - By: Bob & Jody Iler
Goal: Your pup should heel next to you without constant tugging on a leash or without a leash - if conditions are safe to do so.
A few sharp tugs and verbal reminder to “Heel!” is all it takes for this willing pupil!
Reliably heeling, a dog is not in danger along the road. It is by design that I keep myself between traffic and the dog.
Whoa Conditioning (Leash):
Whoa is, perhaps, the most important command after “Come”, in pointing dog training. As I have stated, it is not just for bird work, whoa is a command that should be used to plant a dog in one place or halt its movement. Steps include but are not limited to:
· During walks on leash, you should abruptly stop while applying a slight tug and stating “Whoa”! If pup sits, put him on his feet and repeat, “Whoa”! Wait only a beat, at first, then continue with “Heel”! Only a few reps are required to begin with.
· Gradually increase duration of halted position while next to you.
· Hold hand to pup’s face in stop or halt position, command “Whoa” and back a few steps away. If pup bolts toward you, gently, but firmly, replace and repeat sequence until you can walk away a reasonable distance and return to your pup without it moving, (its paws). Always keep ahold of the leash!
· Repeat, over time increasing duration and distance. Sometimes returning to pup to begin heeling on your way, sometimes call pup to you – if conditions are safe to do so.
· Repeat and advance until, eventually, you can walk a circle around pup.
Goal: Eventually, a young dog should maintain compliance to Whoa command under all circumstances.
“Whoa”! Applied with a slight jerk back on the leash during Heel training, this young dog soon complies willingly.
Leash’s end in sight! In less than a week this energetic youngster understands the whoa command and holds without physical control. Looking away is her way of dealing with it. That will change as she begins to look forward to the “Come!” command and whistle, later on.
For additional information -
Yard Work For The Young Pointing Dog. By: Bob & Jody Iler
Gun Dog Mag
Teaching Your Dog The Whoa Command.
By: Dave Carty
Project Upland
How to Teach Your Dog to Heel.
By: Jason Carter
Again, thank you for the many kind words. As a college professor, I learned that the question hesitantly asked was the question the rest of the class wanted an answer for. You’re not the only one, I assure you! Perhaps, your question(s) will inspire a future blog?!
Taking care of the present will improve the future you will share. I encourage everyone to enjoy all stages of life that a canine companion offers you. As always, take the time to - Enjoy Your Dog!
Up Next: Friendly Fetch - Part 2
