Serious Fun
A dog that jumps up at the food in your hands or sticks its head into a bowl while you’re trying to pour is a nuance. Forcing its way through doors can harm those that are in the path of a rushing dog as well as the dog as it dashes into traffic. The “Whoa” command is not reserved for bird-related drills, it should be used universally whenever – wherever - a dog should remain until released.
All work and no play make for a very unhappy pup. At these early stages we often conceal training within enjoyable activities and a romp in the field or playing a game of fetch can be made as enjoyable as useful. Taking advantage of prey-drive and hording instinct while fun retrieving, a pup learns to enjoy chasing and carrying items. Our task is to demonstrate that there is great fun in bringing them to you for praise and another toss of the toy. All on the way to retrieving birds in the future.
Whoa Conditioning (Feeding):
· Friendly application of “Whoa” while gently (yet firmly) restraining the pup from the food dish.
· Place food down in front of pup. Hold pup back from dish and state “Whoa!” with one hand in front of pup’s face like a stop or halt designation. Remove hands and repeat, “Whoa!”.
· The pup should hold a second or so. Replace pup when he bolts toward the food and repeat until pup hesitates long enough to release with “Okay”! - routine.
· Eventually, increase distance and time of unrestrained control before release to dish.
· Always point toward the dish, within the pup’s sight, before releasing.
Goal: Pup will hold its position indefinitely prior to release, (“Okay” – Head Tap). Will associate your pointing as a sign for going in a direction and will be useful in future field work.
Whoa Conditioning (Exit/Entry):
· Similar to feeding Whoa Conditioning, restrain pup at doorways – house, car, kennel – until they wait.
· Increase time of unrestrained control before releasing through doorways.
· Before opening kennel door, hold up hand and state, “Whoa!” and, then, crack open the door. When pup tries to rush the door, slam it shut. Repeat until pup holds momentarily, release with “Okay!” before pup bolts through the kennel door – routine.
· Hold older pup back from passing through doorways (kennel, vehicle, indoor/outdoor, etc.) with the sequence as described, above – routine.
· Swiftly shut door toward pup when it tries to bolt through. A few quick threats from a door usually creates enough apprehension in a pup to hold them.
· Point and release the pup to exit/enter. Never allow a pup to decide exiting (house, kennel, etc.) on their own.
Goal: Pup will hold its position indefinitely prior to release, (“Okay” – Head Tap). Controlled exit/entrance creates a dog with manners and prevents accidents or, otherwise, mayhem.
Positive Retrieve Conditioning - Stage 1:
· Use a small toy that will be strictly used for this process. Generally, a tennis ball or small stuffed toy that is comfortable for the pup to carry is okay. It is preferable that you use one of several cigar-shaped - puppy-sized - retrieving bumpers to help you as you transition further. Do not allow them free access to this object for use as a chew toy.
· Use a short – confined space such as a hallway and place yourself at the only exit.
· Excite the pup with the object, then gently roll or slide the toy a short distance away from you while clapping your hands – gently, at first.
· Hopefully, the pup trots to pick it up and will try to run off with its treasure. At this point, it will have to run past you to make its getaway. Gently grasp the pup as it returns and cheerfully congratulate its return!
· Repeat only a very few times (5 or 6 max) about every-other day, at first. If the pup shows signs of becoming distracted, quit earlier.
Note: If there is no considerable interest shown by the pup to retrieve, Force Training may be required in the future.
Goal: Developing prey-drive and carrying objects. Pup happily returning objects toward you.
Positive Retrieve Conditioning - Stage 2:
· If Stage 1 was greeted happily, increase the distance and intensity of the process. We will add the terms “Whoa!” and “Fetch!” or “Fetch-Here!” in a friendly manner, (see: Whoa Conditioning – Feeding).
· Now, hold pup back a moment after you toss the toy, and state, “Whoa”! After a brief compliance, release him with an encouraging “Fetch”! Don’t push the pup toward the object. This is only to condition the pup to enjoy hearing those terms that will become commands in the future.
· A leash can be added to the process now. Use the leash to gently reel-in pup upon its return. Use term, “Fetch!” as you joyfully reel pup in. Encourage pup to pick up toy if it is dropped during process.
· As long as the pup does not show a tendency toward fright or apprehension, loudly clap a few times while cheering the pup upon its return with its name and “Fetch!” or “Here!”. It is very important to remain consistent. Pick a term and stick with it – don’t add a bunch of gibberish. Again, this is to create a friendly association to these, eventual, commands.
· Of course, lavish praise at the pup’s return. Don’t get too wordy – “Good-(Name)!” or whatever is plenty.
· Don’t be in a hurry to remove the toy from pup’s mouth, either. Let it savor the moment. The first major step to training retrieve without force is for the pup to HOLD objects willingly.
· A couple of playful wags and tugs on the toy increases the pup’s want to hang-on to the object, which is useful. However, don’t play a drawn out game of tug-of-war. At this stage, you can lightly pinch its flank or its nose closed with your fingers while stating clearly “Give!”, or whatever, to get it to release the toy.
Goal: Pup happily – though momentarily - complying with whoa and accepts the leash as part of the “game”. Association of loud – sharp – sounds with fun, (see: Controlled Confidence - Noise Conditioning).
Up Next: “Heel & Whoa”